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Grow In Backyard

The Planting Calendar

When to sow, plant out, and harvest — counted from your own frost dates, so it works wherever you garden.

Most planting calendars give you months. A month is only right for the one climate it was written in: "sow tomatoes in March" is correct in Austin, a month late in Phoenix, and six weeks early in Minneapolis — and nothing on the page tells you which one you are.

So this calendar counts from your last spring frost instead. That date is different everywhere, but "six weeks before it" means the same thing in every garden in the country.

Before you start: find your frost dates

Find your average last spring frost date from your local extension service or a zip-code lookup, then count backwards. Everything below is relative to that one date.

Ours, for reference, are mid-March and late November — zone 8b, Austin, Texas.

Cool season

These go in while it is still cold and are ruined by heat. Sown too late, they bolt before they crop.

Crop Start indoors Plant out To harvest
Peas Sow as soon as the soil can be worked. Peas stop setting pods once days pass about 80°F, so late sowings simply fail. — 6 weeks before 8–10 weeks
Broccoli Heat makes the heads open into flower early. An autumn crop is easier than a spring one in hot climates. 8 weeks before 4 weeks before 8–12 weeks
Cabbage Steady water matters more than anything else — irregular watering splits the heads open. 8 weeks before 4 weeks before 10–14 weeks
Carrots Direct sow only; transplanting forks the roots. The seedbed must stay damp for the two to three weeks they take to germinate. — 3 weeks before 10–12 weeks
Lettuce Bolts bitter in heat. Sow a short row every two weeks rather than one long row once. 6 weeks before 3 weeks before 4–8 weeks
Onions Buy the day-length type that matches your latitude — short-day in the South, long-day in the North — or they never bulb. 12 weeks before 4 weeks before 16–20 weeks
Potatoes Plant about 4 inches deep into soil around 45-50°F, then hill as they grow. Cold wet ground rots the seed pieces. — 3 weeks before 12–16 weeks
Cilantro Bolts within weeks of warm weather no matter what you do. Succession sow, and let the last one go to coriander seed. — 3 weeks before 4–6 weeks

Warm season

Frost kills these outright, and cold soil stalls them even when the air is mild. Patience beats an early planting every time.

Crop Start indoors Plant out To harvest
Tomatoes Wait for night temperatures above 50°F. Planting on the frost date itself buys nothing — cold soil stalls them for weeks. 6 weeks before 2 weeks after 8–12 weeks
Peppers Slower and more cold-sensitive than tomatoes. They sulk below 55°F and drop flowers above 90°F. 8 weeks before 3 weeks after 10–14 weeks
Cucumbers Resents root disturbance — direct sow, or transplant very young. Soil under 60°F stops germination dead. 3 weeks before 2 weeks after 7–9 weeks
Beans Direct sow into warm soil. Seeds sown into cold wet ground rot rather than germinate. — 1 week after 7–10 weeks
Watermelon Needs a long hot run. In short-summer areas start indoors and choose an early variety, or it never ripens. 3 weeks before 2 weeks after 11–14 weeks
Basil Collapses at about 40°F, well before an actual frost. It is the first thing to bring in at the end of the season. 6 weeks before 2 weeks after 4–6 weeks
Sweet potatoes Planted as slips, not seed, into thoroughly warm soil. They want heat the whole way through. — 4 weeks after 14–18 weeks
Corn Plant in a block of short rows, not one long row — corn is wind-pollinated and a single row pollinates badly. — 2 weeks after 9–12 weeks
Squash and pumpkins Count back from your FIRST autumn frost for pumpkins — they need to be planted early enough to finish. 3 weeks before 2 weeks after 12–16 weeks

Planted once

Put in the ground on their own schedule and cropping for years afterwards. Garlic is the odd one out — it goes in during autumn.

Crop Start indoors Plant out To harvest
Garlic The exception to this whole table: plant in AUTUMN, four to six weeks before the ground freezes. It needs a cold spell to form cloves. — on the frost date 32–36 weeks
Strawberries Pinch off the first year's flowers on June-bearers. You lose one crop and gain far stronger plants. — 4 weeks before 52–56 weeks
Asparagus Plant crowns and do not harvest for two full years. It then produces for twenty, so the wait is the whole bargain. — 4 weeks before 104–156 weeks
Blackberries Bare-root canes go in while dormant. Most varieties fruit on second-year canes, so the first summer is a wait. — 6 weeks before 52–56 weeks

A worked example: zone 8b

Frost-relative timing is precise but abstract, so here is the same calendar resolved into months for one real garden — ours, in Austin, Texas. If your frost dates are later than mid-March, everything shifts back; earlier, forward.

January

Plant bare-root fruit. Start onions and brassicas indoors. Plan the beds.

February

Sow peas and carrots outdoors. Start tomatoes and peppers indoors under lights.

March

Last frost passes. Plant potatoes, sow beans and corn once soil warms.

April

Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and squash go out. The main planting month.

May

Sow melons and sweet potato slips. Mulch everything before the heat arrives.

June

Harvest heavily. Water deeply. Too hot to start most things from seed.

July

The hard month: shade, water, and pull spent spring crops. Start autumn transplants indoors.

August

Sow the autumn garden — brassicas, carrots, beans — into a hot bed that needs shading.

September

Autumn planting continues. The heat breaks. Sow lettuce and greens.

October

Plant garlic. Sow peas and spinach. Harvest sweet potatoes before cool nights.

November

First frost arrives. Cover tender crops or pull them. Plant trees and shrubs.

December

Quiet. Compost, mulch, sharpen tools, order seed for next year.

Printing it

Use your browser's print command. The navigation, footer and signup box drop away and the tables print clean across two sheets — stick it inside a shed door and stop looking it up.

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