Skip to content
Grow In Backyard
Trees & Shrubs

Backyard Trees for Shade: Fast, Safe and Right-Sized

Shade in five to ten years without lifting the patio. Species by mature size, root behaviour and distance from the house.

By Zakaria 3 min read Save to Pinterest — opens Pinterest in a new tab
Two hammocks slung between mature trees over a shaded lawn
Photo: Life-Of-Pix, Pixabay Content License, via Pixabay
On this page

Choose by mature size and distance from the house first, and speed second. The fast trees people regret are the ones that drop limbs and lift paving.

By mature size

treemature heightgrowthnotes
Serviceberry15–25 ftModerateBlossom, fruit, autumn colour. Small yards
Redbud20–30 ftModerateSpring flowers, dappled shade
Japanese maple10–25 ftSlowSpecimen rather than shade tree
Crab apple15–25 ftModerateBlossom, wildlife value
Hornbeam40–60 ftModerateWell-behaved roots, takes pruning
Red maple40–60 ftFastThe standard dependable choice
Ginkgo50–80 ftSlow–moderateTough, pest-free. Buy a male cultivar
London plane70–100 ftFastStreet-tree tough; needs space
Tulip poplar70–90 ftFastLarge, fast, needs real room
Oak (white, red)60–80 ftSlowThe best long-term tree there is
Silver maple60–80 ftVery fastBrittle, lifts paving. Avoid near buildings
Willow / poplar50–80 ftVery fastWater-seeking, drain-blocking. Avoid

Siting

  • West or south-west for maximum summer cooling
  • Canopy clear of the roof at maturity, not at planting
  • Away from drains, septic fields, paving and walls — roots run two to three times the canopy radius
  • Check overhead lines and underground services before digging
  • Check local rules — many municipalities list approved street and yard trees, and some species are prohibited

Buying a big tree is usually a false economy

A small whip establishes faster, catches up within a few years and costs a fraction of a semi-mature specimen — which often sulks for three seasons while the cheap one overtakes it. Spend the money on soil preparation and on watering properly for the first two or three summers instead.

Planting and establishment

  1. Dig a hole twice the root width and no deeper than the root ball
  2. Do not amend the backfill heavily — roots should move out into native soil
  3. Plant at the same depth it grew at; the root flare stays visible
  4. Stake only if exposed, low and loosely, and remove it after a year
  5. Mulch a wide ring, three inches deep, kept clear of the trunk
  6. Water deeply once a week through the first two to three summers
  7. No fertilizer in the first year

Common questions

What is the best fast-growing shade tree?

Red maple, tulip poplar, London plane and hybrid elm all put on two to three feet a year and reach useful shade in five to eight years without the brittleness of the truly fast species. The ones to think twice about are silver maple, willow and poplar: they grow fastest of all and are also the ones that drop limbs, lift paving and block drains. Fast growth and weak wood tend to go together, so aim for the fastest tree that is still structurally sound.

How far from the house should a shade tree be planted?

A common guideline is at least 15 to 20 feet for a medium tree and 25 to 30 feet or more for a large one, measured from the foundation. The better way to think about it is mature canopy radius plus a margin — you want the grown tree's branches clear of the roof, not overhanging it. Roots extend at least as far as the canopy and often two to three times further, so keep large species well away from drains, septic fields and paving as well as walls.

Which shade trees have non-invasive roots?

No tree has roots that avoid pipes, but some are far less trouble than others. Hornbeam, Japanese zelkova, ginkgo, serviceberry, crab apple, redbud and most oaks have relatively well-behaved root systems for their size. The genuinely problematic group is willow, poplar, silver maple and Norway maple, which seek water aggressively and lift paving and foundations. Planting distance does more to prevent root problems than species choice.

What is a good shade tree for a small yard?

Serviceberry, redbud, Japanese maple, crab apple, hornbeam or a columnar cultivar of a larger species. These top out between fifteen and thirty feet, cast real shade over a patio or seating area without dominating the plot, and can be planted closer to the house than a large tree. In a small yard the mistake is planting a species that will reach sixty feet because it is cheap and available — the tree is fine, the yard is not.

How long until a new tree gives useful shade?

Five to eight years for a fast grower planted at a reasonable size, and ten to fifteen for a slower one such as oak. Buying a larger tree does not shortcut it as much as people hope: a small whip establishes faster, catches up within a few years and costs a fraction of a semi-mature specimen. Plant the smaller tree, water it properly for the first two or three summers, and you will be ahead of someone who bought big.

Should I plant a shade tree on the south or west side?

West, in most climates, for cooling. West-facing walls and windows take the hottest afternoon sun and are where shade reduces indoor temperature most, while a tree directly south blocks winter sun you might want. A deciduous tree to the south-west is the usual compromise: shade in summer, bare branches letting light through in winter. Avoid planting where the mature canopy will overhang the roof regardless of orientation.

Backyard Weekly

Know what to plant, week by week

Join the weekly email for seasonal jobs, fixes for what is going wrong, and gear worth buying.

Not ready to subscribe? The planting calendar is free and needs no email.

By subscribing you agree to our privacy policy. Grow In Backyard will never sell your address.

Keep reading