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Reptiles & Amphibians

Snakes in a Crawl Space or Under the House: What to Do

A snake under the house is following rodents and cool air. How to confirm it, get it out safely, and seal the gaps so the next one does not get in.

By Zakaria 5 min read Save to Pinterest — opens Pinterest in a new tab
A black rat snake crossing a concrete slab, its round pupil and pale belly visible
Photo: Judy Gallagher, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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A snake under the house is a symptom, not the problem. It is there because the crawl space is cool, dark and undisturbed, and above all because something small and furry is living there too. Deal with the rodents and the gaps, and the snakes stop arriving.

Confirm it first

A surprising share of crawl-space snake reports are a shed skin left behind by an animal that moved on weeks earlier.

Real evidence, in order of reliability:

  • A shed skin — proof a snake was there, not that it still is
  • The snake itself, usually against a wall or on a pipe rather than in the open
  • Scuff trails in undisturbed dust
  • A musky smell, which some species release when disturbed

Not evidence: a hole in the yard (usually rodents or crayfish), rustling in insulation (usually mice), or a single sighting outside near the foundation.

Identify before you act

This is the only genuinely risky part of the job, and doing it from six feet away removes nearly all of the risk.

North American rough field identification
FeatureHarmless (rat, corn, king, garter)Pit viper (copperhead, rattlesnake, cottonmouth)
HeadSlender, close to neck widthBroad, distinctly triangular
PupilsRoundVertical slit
Heat pitNonePit between eye and nostril
BodySlim, agile, often fastHeavy-bodied, deliberate
BehaviorFlees readilyOften holds ground and coils

When to stop and call someone

Call animal control or a wildlife removal service if you cannot identify the snake with confidence, if it looks like a pit viper or a coral snake, if it is in a space you cannot see all of, or if there is any chance of reaching blindly toward it. Most snakebites happen while people are trying to handle or kill a snake, not while walking past one.

Getting it out

For a snake you have positively identified as harmless:

  1. Open the exit — the crawl space hatch or garage door — on the side that gets sun, during the warm part of the day.
  2. Clear a straight path to it. Move boxes, bins and anything that makes the route a maze.
  3. Leave. Give it several hours with nobody moving around. This works far more often than people expect.
  4. If it needs steering, use a snake hook or a long-handled rake from several feet away, and guide rather than lift. Never use your hands, a shovel, or anything that requires you to be close.
  5. A large trash can tipped on its side with the snake steered in, then carried out and released at the treeline, is the standard method for a calm harmless snake.

Then remove the reason it came

Rodents first. A crawl space with mice is a stocked larder. Trap them, clear the nesting material, and move stored birdseed, pet food and grass seed into sealed metal or hard plastic bins.

Then the gaps. Work the foundation with a flashlight and close anything a quarter-inch or wider:

  • Crawl space and foundation vents → quarter-inch galvanized hardware cloth, screwed down, not stapled
  • Pipe and cable penetrations → expanding foam backed with hardware cloth, then sealant
  • The access hatch → weatherstrip it so it closes flush
  • Garage door → a proper door sweep; the gap under a warped garage door is the single most common entry in the whole house
  • Foundation cracks → masonry sealant

Seal on a warm afternoon

Do the sealing when a snake inside is most likely to be out hunting, so you are not closing one in. If you may have sealed one inside, leave one vent open for a week and watch it, then close it last.

The perimeter

Snakes cross open ground reluctantly. A clear, dry, short band around the foundation does more than anything sold in a bottle:

  • Mow within a few feet of the wall and keep it short
  • Move woodpiles, rock piles and compost well away from the house
  • Clear leaf litter and dense groundcover against the wall
  • Keep mulch shallow near the foundation — deep mulch holds the rodents
  • Fix dripping taps and clear standing water

What does not work

Snake deterrents tested against reality
MethodWorks?Note
Hardware cloth and sealantYesThe only reliable exclusion
Rodent controlYesRemoves the reason
Short, clear perimeterPartlyMakes approach unattractive
Repellent granules (sulfur, naphthalene)NoRepeatedly tested, no reliable effect
MothballsNoAlso illegal used this way in the US, and hazardous indoors
Ultrasonic devicesNoSnakes are largely insensitive to airborne sound
Snake-repelling plantsNoCovered separately — the lemongrass claim does not hold up
Glue boardsLast resortCruel and indiscriminate; release with vegetable oil

One more time, on leaving them alone

A harmless rat snake or king snake under your house is eating the mice that got there first — king snakes will also take copperheads. If it is outside the living space, not in a spot you reach into, and you have identified it, the least-effort answer is often to seal the house properly and let it finish the job on its way out.

Step by step

Time
P14D
Cost
$80
You need
1/4-inch galvanized hardware cloth, Expanding foam and exterior-grade sealant, Door sweeps for the garage and crawl space access, Glue-board traps, if used, plus vegetable oil for release
Tools
Bright flashlight, Gloves and long sleeves, Snake hook or a long-handled rake
  1. Confirm there is actually a snake

    Look for a shed skin, which is the most common real evidence, and for the snake itself along the warm or cool edge of the space rather than in the open. Scuff marks in dust and a faint musky smell can point the same way. A lot of reported crawl-space snakes turn out to be a single shed left by an animal that moved on weeks ago.

  2. Identify it from a distance before anything else

    Photograph it with a flash from several feet away. In North America a broad triangular head, vertical pupils and a heat pit between eye and nostril suggest a pit viper; a slender head, round pupils and a bold belly pattern suggest a harmless rat, corn or king snake. If you cannot identify it confidently, stop here and call animal control or a wildlife removal service.

  3. Give a harmless snake a way out

    Open the crawl space hatch or garage door on the sunny side during the day, clear a straight path to it, and leave the space alone for several hours. Most snakes leave on their own once there is an obvious exit and nobody moving around. Steering one out with a long-handled rake or a snake hook works too — never with your hands, and never by grabbing it.

  4. Remove the food supply

    Snakes follow rodents. Set rodent traps, clear stored birdseed and pet food, and deal with any nesting material you find. A crawl space with mice will keep attracting snakes no matter how many individual snakes you remove.

  5. Seal every gap wider than a quarter inch

    Work around the foundation with a flashlight: gaps around pipes and cables, torn or missing crawl-space vent screens, a warped access hatch, the gap under a garage door. Cover vents with quarter-inch galvanized hardware cloth, foam and seal pipe penetrations, and fit a good door sweep. Do this on a warm day when a snake inside is most likely to have gone out to hunt.

  6. Make the perimeter unattractive

    Cut grass short within a few feet of the foundation, move woodpiles and rock piles away from the walls, clear leaf litter and dense groundcover against the wall, and keep mulch shallow. Snakes cross open ground reluctantly, so a clear band around the house does more than any repellent sold for the purpose.

Common questions

How do I get a snake out of a crawl space?

Open the access hatch on a warm day, clear a straight route to it, and leave the space undisturbed for several hours — most harmless snakes leave by themselves once there is an obvious exit and no activity. If it needs encouragement, steer it with a long-handled rake or a snake hook from several feet away, never by hand. If you cannot identify the snake, or it is venomous, call animal control or a wildlife removal service instead of approaching it.

Why are snakes getting under my house?

Nearly always because there are rodents there, plus the cool, dark, stable temperatures a crawl space offers in summer and the relative warmth it holds in autumn. Snakes are not interested in the house itself. That is why rodent control and sealing entry points fix the problem permanently, while removing individual snakes does not — with mice still under the floor, another snake follows within weeks.

How long can a snake live in a garage?

Indefinitely, if there is water and prey, and for weeks to a couple of months even without food — snakes have very low metabolic demands and an adult can go a month or more between meals comfortably. Dehydration limits them before hunger does. So waiting one out is not a strategy: it either has a reason to stay, which needs fixing, or it needs an open door and an unobstructed route to it.

Are snakes under the house dangerous?

In most of the US and Europe the snake is harmless and is eating the rodents you would otherwise be paying to remove. The risk is a venomous species in regions that have them — copperheads, rattlesnakes, cottonmouths and coral snakes in parts of North America — and the realistic danger comes from reaching blindly into a dark space or trying to grab or kill the snake, which is when most bites happen. Identify first, at a distance, and never reach where you cannot see.

Do snake repellents work?

Granular and spray snake repellents, mothballs, sulfur and ultrasonic devices have all been tested and none of them reliably keeps snakes out of an area. Mothballs are additionally illegal to use this way in the US — the label is the law, and it does not include snake control — and they are hazardous to people and pets in an enclosed crawl space. Hardware cloth over the vents does what the repellent claims to.

Should I use glue traps for snakes?

Only as a last resort, checked several times a day, and never left out unattended. A snake left on a glue board dies slowly, and so do the birds, lizards and small mammals that are frequently caught by accident. If one is caught and the snake is harmless, vegetable oil poured along the contact line releases it. Exclusion and rodent control are more effective and far less cruel.

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