Snakes in a Crawl Space or Under the House: What to Do
A snake under the house is following rodents and cool air. How to confirm it, get it out safely, and seal the gaps so the next one does not get in.
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A snake under the house is a symptom, not the problem. It is there because the crawl space is cool, dark and undisturbed, and above all because something small and furry is living there too. Deal with the rodents and the gaps, and the snakes stop arriving.
Confirm it first
A surprising share of crawl-space snake reports are a shed skin left behind by an animal that moved on weeks earlier.
Real evidence, in order of reliability:
- A shed skin — proof a snake was there, not that it still is
- The snake itself, usually against a wall or on a pipe rather than in the open
- Scuff trails in undisturbed dust
- A musky smell, which some species release when disturbed
Not evidence: a hole in the yard (usually rodents or crayfish), rustling in insulation (usually mice), or a single sighting outside near the foundation.
Identify before you act
This is the only genuinely risky part of the job, and doing it from six feet away removes nearly all of the risk.
| Feature | Harmless (rat, corn, king, garter) | Pit viper (copperhead, rattlesnake, cottonmouth) |
|---|---|---|
| Head | Slender, close to neck width | Broad, distinctly triangular |
| Pupils | Round | Vertical slit |
| Heat pit | None | Pit between eye and nostril |
| Body | Slim, agile, often fast | Heavy-bodied, deliberate |
| Behavior | Flees readily | Often holds ground and coils |
When to stop and call someone
Call animal control or a wildlife removal service if you cannot identify the snake with confidence, if it looks like a pit viper or a coral snake, if it is in a space you cannot see all of, or if there is any chance of reaching blindly toward it. Most snakebites happen while people are trying to handle or kill a snake, not while walking past one.
Getting it out
For a snake you have positively identified as harmless:
- Open the exit — the crawl space hatch or garage door — on the side that gets sun, during the warm part of the day.
- Clear a straight path to it. Move boxes, bins and anything that makes the route a maze.
- Leave. Give it several hours with nobody moving around. This works far more often than people expect.
- If it needs steering, use a snake hook or a long-handled rake from several feet away, and guide rather than lift. Never use your hands, a shovel, or anything that requires you to be close.
- A large trash can tipped on its side with the snake steered in, then carried out and released at the treeline, is the standard method for a calm harmless snake.
Then remove the reason it came
Rodents first. A crawl space with mice is a stocked larder. Trap them, clear the nesting material, and move stored birdseed, pet food and grass seed into sealed metal or hard plastic bins.
Then the gaps. Work the foundation with a flashlight and close anything a quarter-inch or wider:
- Crawl space and foundation vents → quarter-inch galvanized hardware cloth, screwed down, not stapled
- Pipe and cable penetrations → expanding foam backed with hardware cloth, then sealant
- The access hatch → weatherstrip it so it closes flush
- Garage door → a proper door sweep; the gap under a warped garage door is the single most common entry in the whole house
- Foundation cracks → masonry sealant
Seal on a warm afternoon
Do the sealing when a snake inside is most likely to be out hunting, so you are not closing one in. If you may have sealed one inside, leave one vent open for a week and watch it, then close it last.
The perimeter
Snakes cross open ground reluctantly. A clear, dry, short band around the foundation does more than anything sold in a bottle:
- Mow within a few feet of the wall and keep it short
- Move woodpiles, rock piles and compost well away from the house
- Clear leaf litter and dense groundcover against the wall
- Keep mulch shallow near the foundation — deep mulch holds the rodents
- Fix dripping taps and clear standing water
What does not work
| Method | Works? | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Hardware cloth and sealant | Yes | The only reliable exclusion |
| Rodent control | Yes | Removes the reason |
| Short, clear perimeter | Partly | Makes approach unattractive |
| Repellent granules (sulfur, naphthalene) | No | Repeatedly tested, no reliable effect |
| Mothballs | No | Also illegal used this way in the US, and hazardous indoors |
| Ultrasonic devices | No | Snakes are largely insensitive to airborne sound |
| Snake-repelling plants | No | Covered separately — the lemongrass claim does not hold up |
| Glue boards | Last resort | Cruel and indiscriminate; release with vegetable oil |
One more time, on leaving them alone
A harmless rat snake or king snake under your house is eating the mice that got there first — king snakes will also take copperheads. If it is outside the living space, not in a spot you reach into, and you have identified it, the least-effort answer is often to seal the house properly and let it finish the job on its way out.
Step by step
- Time
- P14D
- Cost
- $80
- You need
- 1/4-inch galvanized hardware cloth, Expanding foam and exterior-grade sealant, Door sweeps for the garage and crawl space access, Glue-board traps, if used, plus vegetable oil for release
- Tools
- Bright flashlight, Gloves and long sleeves, Snake hook or a long-handled rake
Confirm there is actually a snake
Look for a shed skin, which is the most common real evidence, and for the snake itself along the warm or cool edge of the space rather than in the open. Scuff marks in dust and a faint musky smell can point the same way. A lot of reported crawl-space snakes turn out to be a single shed left by an animal that moved on weeks ago.
Identify it from a distance before anything else
Photograph it with a flash from several feet away. In North America a broad triangular head, vertical pupils and a heat pit between eye and nostril suggest a pit viper; a slender head, round pupils and a bold belly pattern suggest a harmless rat, corn or king snake. If you cannot identify it confidently, stop here and call animal control or a wildlife removal service.
Give a harmless snake a way out
Open the crawl space hatch or garage door on the sunny side during the day, clear a straight path to it, and leave the space alone for several hours. Most snakes leave on their own once there is an obvious exit and nobody moving around. Steering one out with a long-handled rake or a snake hook works too — never with your hands, and never by grabbing it.
Remove the food supply
Snakes follow rodents. Set rodent traps, clear stored birdseed and pet food, and deal with any nesting material you find. A crawl space with mice will keep attracting snakes no matter how many individual snakes you remove.
Seal every gap wider than a quarter inch
Work around the foundation with a flashlight: gaps around pipes and cables, torn or missing crawl-space vent screens, a warped access hatch, the gap under a garage door. Cover vents with quarter-inch galvanized hardware cloth, foam and seal pipe penetrations, and fit a good door sweep. Do this on a warm day when a snake inside is most likely to have gone out to hunt.
Make the perimeter unattractive
Cut grass short within a few feet of the foundation, move woodpiles and rock piles away from the walls, clear leaf litter and dense groundcover against the wall, and keep mulch shallow. Snakes cross open ground reluctantly, so a clear band around the house does more than any repellent sold for the purpose.
Common questions
How do I get a snake out of a crawl space?
Why are snakes getting under my house?
How long can a snake live in a garage?
Are snakes under the house dangerous?
Do snake repellents work?
Should I use glue traps for snakes?
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