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Squirrels & Wildlife

How to Get Rid of an Armadillo Under Your House

Armadillos dig under slabs and decks for grubs and shelter. One-way exclusion, the burrow check that stops you sealing one in, and what to do about the lawn.

By Salma 5 min read Save to Pinterest — opens Pinterest in a new tab
A nine-banded armadillo foraging on bare soil at the edge of grass, nose to the ground
Photo: cherylholt, Pixabay Content License, via Pixabay
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Two things bring an armadillo under a house: a grub-rich lawn to feed on, and a gap under a slab, deck or porch that is easier to enlarge than to dig fresh.

Step one: confirm nobody is home

Sealing an animal under your own slab is the mistake this whole job is arranged around avoiding.

  1. Find every entrance. Armadillos dig multiple burrows and often more than one mouth per burrow. Walk the skirting of the house, the deck, the porch, the shed and any slab edge
  2. Stuff each entrance loosely with crumpled newspaper, or sprinkle a band of flour or fine sand across it
  3. Check at first light. Pushed-out paper or outbound tracks with none returning means it left and has not come back
  4. Repeat for two or three nights. Armadillos do not emerge every night, especially in cold weather
  5. Only then treat the burrow as empty

If you cannot confirm it is empty, use a one-way door

A one-way exclusion door — hardware cloth hinged at the top over the entrance, open at the bottom, so the animal pushes out and cannot push back — is the right answer whenever the track test is ambiguous.

Leave it for four to seven nights, then test again before sealing. Never trust a single night’s reading.

Step two: close the burrow properly

Backfill methods, by how long they hold
MethodHoldsVerdict
Loose soilDaysReopened almost immediately
Tamped gravelMonths to yearsThe right backfill
Gravel plus buried hardware clothIndefiniteBest
Concrete plugIndefinite at that holeThey dig a new one two feet along
Rock on top of the holeHours—
  • Backfill with gravel in tamped layers. Armadillos re-excavate soil easily and gravel badly
  • Pin hardware cloth flat over the area, buried an inch or two down, so a fresh attempt at the same spot meets wire
  • Then look along the wall for where they will try next, which is the point of the barrier in the next section

Step three: the barrier that makes it permanent

One sealed burrow moves the animal two feet along the wall. The barrier is what ends it.

  1. Dig a trench along the skirting of the deck, porch or slab, twelve to eighteen inches deep
  2. Set hardware cloth or welded wire — quarter to half-inch mesh — down the face, fixed to the structure at the top
  3. Angle the bottom twelve inches outward into an L, away from the house, and backfill over it. An animal digging at the base hits a horizontal apron rather than finding a gap
  4. No gaps at corners or posts. This is where every barrier fails
  5. Backfill with gravel at the surface rather than soil

Do the deck and the shed at the same time. An excluded armadillo looks for the next best void within a night or two, and that is the one you did not screen.

Step four: take away the food

A lawn being rolled up every night is a lawn full of soil invertebrates. The digging is the animal eating, not the animal vandalising.

  • Check for grubs. Lift a square foot of turf; more than about five or six larvae underneath means a grub problem, and the armadillo is a symptom
  • Treat the grubs — beneficial nematodes for a slow biological route, or a registered insecticide if the infestation is heavy
  • Water less, and deeper. Soft, constantly damp soil is both easier to dig and better grub habitat
  • Clear brush piles, log stacks and dense low cover near the house, which are the daytime shelter that makes the yard worth sleeping in
  • Fallen fruit off the ground

Expect the lawn damage to look worse before it stops

The cone-shaped holes and rolled-back turf are foraging, and they continue for as long as the grubs are there — even after the burrow under the house is closed.

Grub control and exclusion are two separate jobs. Doing only the exclusion ends the burrow and leaves the lawn digging; doing only the grub control ends the digging and leaves an animal living under your slab.

Handling, and the one health note

  • Do not handle an armadillo, alive or dead, with bare hands
  • Nine-banded armadillos can carry Mycobacterium leprae, and a small number of human leprosy cases in the southern United States have been linked to them. The route is handling or eating them, not sharing a yard
  • Gloves when working around burrows, and wash afterwards
  • They do not bite defensively in any meaningful sense, but they jump straight up when startled, which is how so many are hit by cars

What does not work

  • Mothballs. No effect, and illegal used outdoors in most places
  • Ammonia, predator urine, castor oil. A few days of mild avoidance at best
  • Ultrasonic repellers. No evidence of effect
  • Filling the hole with soil. Reopened within the week
  • Trapping without a barrier. Another armadillo arrives at an unscreened void, because the void was the attraction
  • Relocating one. Prohibited in many states, and usually fatal to the animal

Common questions

How do I get an armadillo out from under my house?

Confirm it has left before you seal anything. Armadillos forage at night, so cover the burrow entrance loosely with crumpled newspaper or sprinkle flour across it, then check at first light: disturbed paper or outbound tracks mean the burrow is empty. Repeat for two or three nights. Then fit a one-way exclusion door, or on a confirmed-empty burrow, backfill with gravel and screen the whole gap with buried hardware cloth. Never seal first and check after.

What gets rid of armadillos permanently?

Taking away the grubs and sealing the access. Armadillos dig for soil invertebrates, so a lawn heavy with grubs is a feeding ground and the digging continues as long as it stays that way — treating grubs cuts the reason to visit. The permanent part of the fix is a buried barrier: hardware cloth or wire mesh along the skirting of a deck, porch or slab, dug down twelve to eighteen inches and angled outward at the bottom.

Do armadillos carry leprosy?

Nine-banded armadillos can carry Mycobacterium leprae, and a small number of human cases in the southern United States have been linked to them. The risk comes from handling the animals or eating them, not from their presence in the yard. Do not handle an armadillo, live or dead, with bare hands, and wear gloves when working around a burrow. As an everyday garden risk this is very low.

Will mothballs or ammonia get rid of an armadillo?

No. Mothballs do not work on armadillos, and using them outdoors is illegal in most jurisdictions because the vapour is a registered pesticide used off-label. Ammonia and predator urine products give at best a few days of avoidance. There is no registered repellent that reliably moves an armadillo, which is why exclusion and grub control are the two methods that actually hold.

Is it legal to trap an armadillo?

It varies and it is worth checking first. Several southern US states classify armadillos as nuisance wildlife with liberal rules, others require a permit, and relocating wildlife is prohibited in many places regardless. If you do trap, a live trap set at the burrow mouth with wing boards funnelling into it works where bait usually does not — armadillos follow edges rather than scent. Check your state agency before setting anything.

How do I fill an armadillo hole?

Only once you are certain it is empty, which the newspaper or flour test tells you. Backfill with gravel rather than loose soil, because gravel is far harder to re-excavate, and tamp it down in layers. Then cover the area with hardware cloth pinned flat and buried an inch or two under, so a fresh dig at the same spot hits wire. A hole simply filled with soil is usually reopened within a week.

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