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Spider Plant Care: Brown Tips, Babies and Why It Stops

Spider plants are nearly unkillable but tell you everything through their tips. Water, light, why yours has no babies, and propagating the ones it has.

By Zakaria 4 min read Save to Pinterest — opens Pinterest in a new tab
A variegated spider plant in a weathered terracotta pot beside a window, showing browning leaf tips
Photo: Nithyashree Balasupramaniyan, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
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Nearly unkillable, and unusually honest about it — a spider plant tells you what is wrong through its tips before anything serious happens.

The basics

What it actually needs
LightBright indirect. Tolerates medium; variegation fades in low light
WaterWhen the top 1–2 in is dry. Never standing in a saucer
SoilOrdinary houseplant compost with drainage. Nothing special
HumidityAverage is fine; dry air worsens tip browning
Temperature60–80°F. Below about 50°F it sulks
FeedingHalf strength, monthly, spring and summer only
PotSnug. A pot-bound plant flowers and makes babies

Those thick white tuberous roots are water storage, which is why the plant forgives being forgotten and does not forgive being waterlogged. When they fill the pot so completely that the whole root ball lifts out as a solid white mass, it is time — one size up, no more.

Brown tips

The most-asked question about this plant, and the answer is usually what you are watering it with.

Reading the tips
Looks likeCauseFix
Dry brown tips, otherwise healthyFluoride or chlorine in tap waterRainwater, filtered, or tap left standing overnight
Brown tips plus white crust on soilFertiliser saltsFlush the pot; feed less
Brown crispy tips, leaves limpUnder-watering, dry airWater more consistently
Brown tips with yellowing base leavesOver-wateringLet it dry; check drainage
Bleached pale patchesDirect sunMove out of the midday beam

Flushing the pot is worth doing every few months regardless: take it to a sink and run water through it for a minute or two, letting it drain fully. That washes out the accumulated salts that no amount of good watering will otherwise remove.

Browned tips do not turn green again. Trim them at an angle with scissors if they bother you, leaving a sliver of brown rather than cutting into green tissue.

Tap water is the usual culprit, and it is easy to test

If the plant is otherwise thriving and the tips keep browning, run it on rainwater or filtered water for two months and watch the new leaves.

Old damage stays. New leaves coming in clean is the confirmation.

Babies

Spiderettes appear on long arching stems — technically stolons — and a plant that makes none is usually being treated too well.

What suppresses them:

  • Too large a pot. Energy goes into roots and leaves. A snug pot is the single biggest factor
  • Not enough light. Medium light keeps a plant alive and stops it reproducing
  • Too much nitrogen. Lush green foliage, no stolons
  • Youth. Often a year or two before a plant starts
  • Long day length. Flowering has a short-day element, so a plant under a lamp until midnight may never trigger

What encourages them: bright indirect light, a pot it has filled, light feeding, and leaving it alone. A plant that has been in the same pot for two years on a bright windowsill is usually covered in them.

Propagating

The reliable method, in order of success rate:

1. Pin it down while still attached — the best way.

  1. Pick a spiderette showing small brown-white root nubs at its base
  2. Sit a small pot of damp compost next to the mother plant
  3. Pin the baby onto the surface with a bent paperclip or wire staple, still attached to its stolon
  4. Keep lightly moist. It roots in two to three weeks while the mother plant feeds it
  5. Cut the stolon once it is visibly growing

2. Cut and pot directly. Snip the spiderette off, plant into damp compost, keep it humid — a clear bag over the pot for a fortnight — and out of direct sun.

3. Water rooting. Easy and satisfying to watch, and the weakest of the three: water roots are brittle and translate poorly to compost. If you do it, move it into soil within a week or two of roots appearing, not after they are inches long.

Common problems

  • Yellowing lower leaves — normal in small numbers; widespread means over-watering
  • Mushy base, foul smell — root rot. Unpot, cut away black roots, repot into dry compost, and water far less
  • Faded variegation — not enough light
  • Sticky leaves, fine webbing — spider mites, which like dry air. Shower the plant, raise humidity, treat if it persists
  • Limp, pale, refusing to grow in winter — usually cold, or a draught from a window

Outdoors

In zones 9 to 11 it is a genuine perennial groundcover for shade. Everywhere else it makes a good summer container or hanging-basket plant, in bright shade rather than sun, and comes back indoors before the first frost. Full outdoor sun bleaches it badly within days — move it out gradually.

Common questions

How do you care for a spider plant?

Bright indirect light, water when the top inch or two of compost has dried, and a pot with drainage that it is allowed to fill. Ordinary houseplant compost is fine, normal room temperature suits it, and it wants feeding only through spring and summer at roughly half strength. It tolerates neglect better than fuss: more spider plants are killed by sitting in a saucer of water than by anything else, and a slightly pot-bound plant flowers and makes babies more readily than a freshly repotted one.

Why does my spider plant have brown tips?

Almost always the water rather than the care. Spider plants are unusually sensitive to fluoride, chlorine and to salts from fertiliser, all of which accumulate at the leaf tips and scorch them. Switch to rainwater, filtered water or tap water left standing overnight, flush the pot thoroughly every few months to wash salts out, and ease off the feed. Dry air and letting the plant dry out completely between waterings do the same thing, so check those next. Trim browned tips at an angle if they bother you — it is cosmetic.

Why does my spider plant have no babies?

Usually not enough light, too much pot, or too young a plant. Spiderettes form on plants that are mature, getting bright indirect light, and slightly pot-bound — a plant recently moved into a large pot puts its energy into roots and leaves instead. Excess nitrogen has the same effect. A short-day response is also involved, so a plant sitting under a lamp late into the evening often never starts. Give it good light, leave it in a snug pot, feed lightly, and be patient for a season.

How do you propagate a spider plant?

Take a spiderette that already shows small nubs of root at its base and either pin it into a small pot of damp compost while still attached to the mother plant, cutting it free once it has rooted in two to three weeks, or cut it off and pot it directly, keeping it humid and lightly moist. Rooting in water also works and is easy to watch, but water roots are brittle and adapt poorly to compost, so move it across early, within a week or two of roots appearing.

Are spider plants toxic to cats?

No. Spider plants are on the ASPCA's non-toxic list for cats and dogs, which is a large part of why they are recommended for households with pets. Cats are nonetheless strongly drawn to chewing them, and a cat that eats a lot of any plant material may vomit. The plant survives the attention better than most; if it is being stripped, hanging it well out of reach is the usual answer.

How often should I water a spider plant?

When the top inch or two of compost is dry to the touch, which in a warm room in summer is roughly weekly and in winter noticeably less. Water until it runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer — the single most common way to kill one is leaving it standing in water. The thick white roots store moisture, so a plant that dries out briefly recovers, while one kept constantly wet rots at the base and does not.

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