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Butterfly Pea Flower: Growing It and Using the Blue

A tender vine grown for blue flowers that turn tea purple with lemon. Trellis, heat, seed soaking, and how to grow it where winters are cold.

By Zakaria 5 min read Save to Pinterest — opens Pinterest in a new tab
A single deep-blue butterfly pea flower with a white and yellow throat against green foliage
Photo: Kumaravel, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr
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Grown for one thing: a flower that brews an ink-blue tea and turns magenta the moment lemon hits it. The plant itself is an easy tender vine that asks for heat and a trellis.

What it is

A twining legume from tropical Asia, in the pea family and behaving like one: nitrogen-fixing roots, pea-shaped flowers, slender pods. The common form is a deep blue single; there are also double-flowered and white cultivars, and the doubles give noticeably more petal per flower for drying.

  • Vine to 6–10 ft, occasionally more in a long hot season
  • Flowers 2 in across, continuously from midsummer to frost
  • Zones 10–11 perennial, annual elsewhere
  • Frost kills it outright — there is no hardening it off into cold

Growing it

Sowing. The seed coat is hard and repels water, which is the usual reason a packet fails.

  1. Scarify — nick the coat with a nail file or rub it on fine sandpaper, avoiding the pale scar where the seed attached
  2. Or soak overnight in warm water. Seeds that have swollen to roughly double are ready; ones still hard get another nick
  3. Sow ½ inch deep, somewhere warm — 70–85°F
  4. Three to seven days to emerge
  5. Start indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last frost if the season is short

Planting out. Only once nights are reliably above about 60°F. A cold snap in the first week sets the plant back further than waiting would have cost.

What it wants
Requirement
SunFull. 6+ hours; flowering falls off fast in shade
SoilFree-draining, poor is fine. Neutral to slightly acid
WaterRegular while young; drought-tolerant once established
FeedingLittle to none. Nitrogen gives leaves, not flowers
Support6–10 ft trellis, netting, fence, obelisk
TemperatureLoves heat. Dies at frost

Feeding it is the common mistake

It is a legume with nitrogen-fixing root nodules, so it makes its own. A general fertiliser — or planting into rich, recently manured ground — produces a big leafy vine that flowers reluctantly.

If you feed at all, use something low in nitrogen and higher in potassium, and only once flowering has started.

In a pot it does well: a 5-gallon container, gritty free-draining mix, an obelisk, and a sunny wall. Pots are also how you overwinter one — bring it in before frost, keep it bright and above 55°F, water sparingly, and cut it back hard in spring.

Pinching the growing tips when the vine is young gives a bushier plant and more flowering stems. Left alone it runs upward and flowers mostly at the top.

Harvesting and drying

  • Pick in the morning, once the flower is fully open and the dew has dried
  • Picking daily keeps it flowering — letting pods set slows the whole plant down
  • Use fresh, or dry for storage
  • Drying: a single layer somewhere warm, dry and out of direct sun for a few days, or a dehydrator at low heat. They are dry when they crumble rather than bend
  • Store in an airtight jar away from light. The colour fades in sunlight

A productive vine gives a steady handful a day through late summer, which dries down to very little — expect to need a season’s picking to fill a decent jar.

The colour

The pigment is anthocyanin, and it reads pH like litmus.

What the brew does
AddColour
Nothing — plain waterDeep indigo blue
A little lemon or limeViolet
More acidMagenta pink
HibiscusBright pink-red
Something alkalineDrifts toward green

Brewing: roughly 5 to 10 dried flowers per cup, water just off the boil, three to five minutes. Longer gives a deeper blue rather than a stronger flavour, because there is not much flavour to extract — it is mild, slightly earthy, caffeine-free, and nearly always blended with lemongrass, ginger, mint or citrus.

Beyond tea it is used as a natural food dye: blue rice, cocktails, syrups, ice cream, and anything where the colour shifts on serving.

Flowers yes, seeds and pods no

The flowers are a long-established food across Southeast Asia. The seeds and pods are not food — they have a reputation as a purgative, and there is no reason to test it.

Standard herbal-tea caution otherwise: ask a pharmacist rather than a recipe blog if you are pregnant or taking medication.

Where it struggles

  • Cool summers. Without real heat it grows slowly and flowers sparsely
  • Shade. Fewer flowers, longer leggier growth
  • Wet, heavy soil. Root rot follows quickly
  • Rich ground. Foliage instead of flowers
  • The first frost. No warning, no recovery — pick everything before it

It self-seeds readily in frost-free climates, and is listed as invasive in parts of northern Australia and some Pacific islands. Where winters kill it that is not a concern; where they do not, check before planting.

Common questions

How do you grow butterfly pea flower?

Treat it as a tender perennial vine that is grown as an annual anywhere with frost. It needs full sun, heat, free-draining soil and something to climb — 6 to 10 feet of trellis, netting or fence. Soak or nick the seed before sowing, plant out only once nights are reliably above about 60°F, and feed sparingly: it is a legume and fixes its own nitrogen, so rich feeding gives leaves instead of flowers. It flowers within two to three months of sowing and keeps going until frost.

Is butterfly pea flower a perennial?

It is perennial in USDA zones 10 and 11 and treated as an annual everywhere colder, because it dies at the first frost. In zone 9 it sometimes returns from the root after a mild winter. Elsewhere the practical approaches are to grow it fresh from seed each spring, which is easy and cheap, or to keep a plant in a large pot and overwinter it indoors somewhere bright and above about 55°F.

Why does butterfly pea tea change colour?

The blue comes from anthocyanins, the same class of pigments that colour red cabbage and blueberries, and they respond to pH. In neutral water the brew is a deep indigo blue; add anything acidic — lemon, lime, hibiscus — and it shifts through violet to magenta pink. Add something alkaline and it moves toward green. The colour change is chemistry rather than flavour, and it is why the flower is used as a natural dye and a party trick in equal measure.

What does butterfly pea flower taste like?

Very little, which is the point. The brew is mild, faintly earthy and woody, closer to a delicate green tea than to anything floral, and it carries no caffeine. It is used almost entirely for colour rather than flavour, which is why it is nearly always blended with lemongrass, mint, ginger, honey or citrus. Anyone expecting a pronounced floral tea from the colour tends to find it thin.

How long does butterfly pea take to flower from seed?

About six to ten weeks from sowing in warm conditions, and it then flowers continuously until frost. Germination itself takes three to seven days after the seed has been scarified — nicked with a file or soaked overnight in warm water — and is slow and patchy without that step, because the seed coat is hard and water-resistant. Sow indoors four to six weeks before your last frost if the season is short.

Is butterfly pea flower safe to eat?

The flowers are widely eaten across Southeast Asia and are used as a food colouring in rice, drinks and desserts, and they are generally regarded as safe in the amounts used for tea. The seeds and pods are a different matter — they have a reputation as a purgative and should not be eaten. As with any herbal tea, it is worth being cautious in pregnancy or alongside medication and asking a pharmacist or doctor rather than a recipe blog.

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