Firewood Moisture Content Chart: Seasoning Times by Species
Dry firewood is under 20 per cent moisture. Here is what each species starts at, how long it takes to get there, and how to check without guessing.
On this page
Under 20 per cent, measured on a fresh split face. Everything else on this page is about how long each species takes to get there.
The chart
| Species | Green MC | Time to under 20% | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pine, spruce, fir | 50–70% | 6–9 months | Fast. Resinous, more sparks |
| Poplar, willow | 60–100% | 6–9 months | Dries fast, burns fast, low heat |
| Ash | 30–45% | 9–12 months | Lowest green MC of the common hardwoods |
| Birch | 45–55% | ~12 months | Bark sheds water — stack so it can breathe |
| Cherry | 45–55% | ~12 months | Pleasant, moderate heat |
| Maple | 50–65% | 12–18 months | Sugar maple at the longer end |
| Hickory | 50–60% | 12–18 months | Very high heat output |
| Beech | 50–65% | 18–24 months | Excellent once dry |
| Oak | 60–80% | 24 months | The one people rush. Worth the wait |
| Elm | 60–80% | 24 months | Interlocked grain — hard to split |
Measure the inside, not the outside
The surface of a split dries within weeks. Pressing a meter to it on a two-month-old oak round can read in the teens while the core is still at 40 per cent.
Split a piece and test the fresh face, pins across the grain, wood at room temperature. Cold wood reads low.
Reading the wood without a meter
Not as good as a meter, but reliable enough to sort a stack:
- End checks — cracks radiating from the centre of the end grain
- Sound — two seasoned pieces knocked together ring; wet ones thud
- Bark — loose or falling off on many species
- Weight — obviously lighter than a green piece the same size
- Soap test — rub dish soap on one end and blow at the other. Bubbles mean air is moving through, so the wood is dry
What actually dries wood
- Split it. Round logs dry through the ends only and take far longer
- Off the ground — pallets, rails, anything with air underneath
- Single rows where you can, with gaps for air
- Cover the top only. A tarp down the sides traps moisture and grows mould
- Wind matters more than sun. An open, breezy spot beats a sheltered sunny one
- Stack by season so you are burning last year’s, not this year’s
Why it matters beyond lighting easily
Three things get worse as moisture rises:
- Heat. Energy goes into evaporating water instead of into the room. At 25 per cent a meaningful share of the fire’s output is doing nothing useful
- Creosote. Cool smoke condenses in the flue as a tarry deposit. That deposit is what burns in a chimney fire
- Smoke. Heavy visible smoke, which in many areas is now regulated for wood sold or burned
A moisture meter costs very little and settles every argument about a stack. For anyone burning more than a few fires a year it is the single most useful thing to own after the axe.
Common questions
What moisture content should firewood be?
How long does firewood take to season?
How do I measure firewood moisture?
Is ash really burnable green?
What happens if you burn wet firewood?
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